The History Of The Blazer Jacket

blazer history
Blazer Jacket Style

American Style Blazer – The traditional American style blazer is normally a 2 button navy blue jacket with soft shoulders.  The jacket’s pockets can either be patch or flap pocket, with the lapel style being notch.  Normally you’ll see a center vent here, although I encourage men to choose a double vent as it flatters more body types.

English Style Blazer – English style blazers vary from their American counterparts in that they are built around more structured shoulders with a suppressed waist. They build out the chest a bit more and have less of a box shape.  Made in either a single or double breasted style, the English style blazer will have a double vent and if double breasted always peak lapels.  The single breasted version will have notch lapels and most likely 3 buttons but possibly 2.

Single-Breasted American Style vs. Double-Breasted English Cut

Italian Style Blazer – The Italian style blazer varies from the other two in that the fabric selected is lighter weight, and the entire jacket build is much less structured.  Extremely soft shoulders and a flexible but gently constructed inner lining allow the jacket to float next to the wearer’s body.  Vented or unvented, 3 buttons or 2, the Italian jackets have more flair and are a reflection of their wearer’s personality.

How a Blazer Jacket Should Fit

A blazer should fit in the same fashion a suit jacket and sport coat should.

  • Room in the shoulders to allow full arm movement but not so much room that the shoulders are over extending the shoulder points by more than ½ inch.
  • Room in the chest to fully button the jacket but not enough to hide a baseball.
  • The blazer jacket sleeves should extend to the wrist bone and show ¼ to ¾ an inch of shirt cuff when standing straight.
  • The jacket length should always fully cover your backside – it can be a bit longer if you are taller than six foot, and should lean on the shorter side if you are shorter than five foot six.
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NO ONE DOES SOCKS BETTER

FullSizeRenderHere at Ottavio Nuccio we take pride in making sure that all our products are top notch. Our socks are a brilliant product to put under your suits and everyday attire as they:

  1. Are made from special technology that stops trouser from sticking to your legs
  2. Keep you cool in the summer and warm in the winter
  3. Come in a range of colours and sizes
  4. Are packaged in luxury box

Please go to your website for more information or email info@ottavionuccio.co.uk

WHY SHOES ARE IMPORTANT

There is nothing that will make you look more stylish and give you a confidence boost like a nice pair of shoes.

shoesEvery man needs a few pairs of great dress shoes for the unavoidable occasions that will call for them. If you’re a man who knows how important quality dress shoes are, then you probably don’t need to read further. But for everyone else, this may be one of the most important fashion articles you read.

What you have on your feet can make or break any look. It doesn’t matter if you have the most amazing suit in the world, if you have bad shoes, you might as well roll around in a puddle of mud.

Shoes can get expensive, but if you’re smart about your choice, you’ll be able to wear them for years. Not only that, but the confidence you get every time you put them on will be well worth the price.

Whether for business or for that hot date, nothing will make you look more successful or sexy. Get yourself a pair of high-quality shoes and tell me if you don’t get compliments.

How to Wash a Dress Shirt

shirts 1

Our shirts are made to be worn and worshiped. This means they get dirty. However, with proper care, a high quality dress shirt can last for several years and continue to look great. In this post, we’re going to break down three of the most popular washing methods and detail how you can keep your dress shirts looking great for years to come. We’ll also outline how to deal with special emergencies as well as provide some other cleaning tips.

Method 1: “Wash and press” at the cleaners

Wash and press is the “normal” way to clean dress shirts when you take them to the cleaners. (Don’t be too confused by this.  Even though you take your shirt to the “dry-cleaners”, they are most likely doing wash and press unless you are expressly asking them to dry clean )

  1. They wash your shirt in a normal washing machine using water and detergent.
  2. They remove most of the water from the shirt with the spin cycle in the washing machine.
  3. They pull the damp shirt onto an industrial shirt press that closes over the shirt and simultaneously irons the garment while removing all of the moisture.

Pros: Convenient, relatively inexpensive.

Cons: Some cleaners will be too hard on the shirts.  The slamming of the press over the front of the shirt can cause buttons to chip or shatter. If the shirt torso or sleeve is stretched over the press when it is steamed dry it can cause this part of the shirt to become wider in these areas.  Finally, in the process of bringing the shirts from the cleaners to your closet collars will often be smashed in some way, requiring additional ironing for optimal appearance.

Method 2: Wash the shirt yourself at home

If you don’t trust your dry cleaner, or if you’d just like a little more control over how your shirts are washed, you may want to wash your dress shirts at home.  We really like this option, but to do so properly requires a bit of time and care on your part. Follow these steps for optimal results:

  1. Start by preparing the dress shirt.  Unbutton all of the buttons, including cuff buttons and any collar buttons.  Remove any collar stays if it has them and put them in a safe place.
  2. Pre-treat any stains by carefully working a little detergent into them, or better yet spot-cleaning them with a stain remover pen.
  3. Set up your washing machine: To minimize wear on a fine or lightweight dress shirt, use the Delicate cycle.  If the shirt is made from a heavier duty fabric, or is particularly dirty you may opt for the Normal cycle.  Whites and light colors can use hot water.  Dark colored shirts that you don’t want to fade should be washed with cold water. Take care not to include other laundry items with bold colors that may bleed into your shirts.
  4. Use a high quality detergent, like Vanish Complete, that is appropriate to the color of the shirt.  Be sure not to use any detergents or cleaners that are chlorine based as these will cause discoloration to many shirt fabrics.
  5. Wash the shirts in the washing machine, and then let the spin cycle wring most of the water out of the garment.
  6. The shirts will be tightly crumpled in the washing machine so you’ll want to remove them promptly before these intense wrinkles will dry into the shirt. Hang the shirts up or lay them out so that they can air dry.  Be careful about hanging the shirts on a sharp hanger or with tight clothespins as this can distort the fabric or leave a mark on the shirt.
  7. Next you’ll want to iron the shirts.  You don’t need to wait for the shirts to be completely dry to begin this step, but they should be mostly dry.

Pros: Gives you the most control to treat stains, protect buttons, and iron collars carefully.

Cons: Takes time and attention.

Method 3: “Dry clean” at the cleaners

While we don’t really recommend dry cleaning cotton dress shirts, some folks like to take their shirts to the cleaners and have them dry cleaned. While this cleaning method will certainly not damage the shirt and minimize shrinkage, it does have some downsides. Dry cleaning solvents contain very little to no water so perspiration based dirt can be left untouched.  Washing dress shirts in water is better for removing water soluble dirt and stains from sweat.  That said, if your dress shirt has an oil based stain on it you may have better luck getting it cleaned by a dry cleaner than in a washing machine.

Pros: Convenient.  Minimizes wear of the shirts.  Removes oil-based stains.

Cons: Won’t always remove water soluble dirt or stains. Expensive. Your shirts are at the mercy of a potentially abusive shirt cleaner.

shirts 2

Question: Is it ok to dry shirts in the dryer?

We recommend avoiding the dryer and letting the shirt air dry on a hanger, although (depending on the size of your house) this is not always practical. If you must put the shirt in a dryer, avoid high heat or over-drying the shirt. Use the dryer to get most of the moisture out of the shirt, and then iron the shirt immediately to remove the rest of the moisture and any wrinkles at the same time.  If you dry your shirts completely in the dryer you’ll  find the shirt a bit harder to iron perfectly.

One exception to this recommendation is heavy duty casual shirts.  For example, if you’re washing a heavy oxford cloth or chambray shirt, the fabric is going to be hearty and will easily handle any wear from the washer and dryer so drying it in the dryer is no problem.

Question: How to remove a stain from a white shirt?

In the unfortunate event that you get spill some wine or spaghetti sauce on your shirt, some quick action could minimize any stains that result.

  1. With a brush or comb, carefully swipe or lift away any large pieces such that you don’t smear them worse into the garment.
  2. Immediately treat the stain with water or stain remover solvent.  The sooner the better.  If you can’t get your hands on a stain remover pen, we recommend a Tide Pen, try dishwashing detergent, lemon juice, vinegar, or seltzer water.
  3. Dab solvents on the stain with a light touch. Pressure can force the stain deeper into the fibers of the garment.
  4. Rinse and repeat.

Question: Should I use starch when the shirt is pressed?

While many people do like to have their shirts starched, our suggestion is to avoid starch completely.  While starch can help a broadcloth or oxford shirt appear more crisp it can also cause shirts to wear out prematurely.  When the starch material gets embedded in the shirt fibers it acts like a million little knives that break down the fibers over time.

Three tips to maximize dress shirt life

  1. Don’t leave dirty white shirts in the hamper for too long before washing. This can lead to premature yellowing of the collar band as any sweat and oils will have more time to set into the fabric of the shirt.
  2. Always remove the collar stays from the collar before washing and ironing.  If you don’t they will become warped causing the dress shirt to collar points to curve awkwardly.
  3. Don’t count on your cleaner to find and remove stains. If you know there’s a spot on your placket or sleeve, point it out so that they know to spot clean it.

HOW TO BLOG

1 | Rotate your suits
As with your shoes and shirts, it is always advisable to have at least five good options, which you can rotate throughout the working week.
2 | Buy spare trousers
If you are able to buy additional trousers for each suit then this is also highly recommended. The more you alternate, the longer the life of the suit. Remember that trousers are also the first things to wear our so an extra pair is a wise move.
3 | Get the right size (really)

To start with you must make sure you buy a suit that is the right size. A tight suit will mean that unnecessary tension is put on the cloth and over time this may cause the fabric to wear thin or split. A simple seam split is fixable but highly embarrassing (especially if it makes a noise when it happens!)

Here at Ottavio Nuccio Gala UK we offer made to measure bespoke suits by taking measurements of our client’s whole body it means that getting the right size will never be an issue.
4 | Go back to the original tailor
Don’t take you suit to be altered at your local dry cleaner; the shop that sold you the suit should be responsible for such services. At Ottavio Nuccio Gala UK our tailors alter all suits in-house and can meet the customers if there are any special requirements.
5 | Avoid using internal pockets
When wearing your suit do not over load the pockets with keys and thick wallets. Linings spit easily and cotton pocket bags wear out. Plus it also makes the garment look clumpy and eventually the suit will lose its shape.
6 | Avoid using external pockets
The outer side pockets of a suit should also never be opened. Keep them closed and the silhouette will always appear streamline and sharp, putting your hands or belongings in the outer pockets will make it look like a sack of potatoes, which is not a great look.
7 | Don’t dry clean (unless absolutely necessary)
I would also advise that you do not dry-clean your suit unless you really need to. The chemicals will over time damage natural fibres and they will weaken and breakdown. Once every six months should be fine unless there is an emergency stain of some sort.
8 | Invest in a clothes brush
A proper clothes brush is another good recommendation, which will help remove any stains or marks.
9 | Hang with care
Keep your suit on a good thick wooden hanger (this helps keep the shoulder shape and absorbs moisture) and make sure it’s not squeezed in-between other garments. It needs to hang and the fabric needs to breath and dry after a long day’s worth of wear.
11 | Use a steam iron
Ultimately your suit is a beautiful object, which should be treated as such. Oh, and one last tip, press your suit regularly with a steam iron, this will open up the fibres and help remove stains – not to mention keeping it crease free.